The Moss Mini – adventures in fitting part 1!


There are so many cute Grainline Studios Moss mini skirts out there – I love Ginger Makes‘, this spotty one by Jen at Grainline and this copy of it at Cutcutsew

I really liked Ginger Makes’ comment about how useful it is to make wardrobe basics. I am trying to make clothes that I will actually get a lot of wear out of – I don’t want to make things that I never have an occasion to wear – or more importantly – things that look a bit crap and home-made in a bad way.

I love the design of this skirt but I am not really built for mini skirts these days – so I went for the option with the hem band – except I just increased the length by the same amount to avoid having a horizontal line across my thighs. I was concerned about fit because I have wide hips going on so I made a muslin first

The muslin was a total disaster – although the width around the hip was fine the waist was way too big – looking at the pattern again I think I had been over generous in picking the waist measurement to use but even taking account of that the waist was still too loose and it seemed that the yoke wasn’t taking the skirt in enough between waist and hip – I have a pear-shape so there is a big differential between the two. At first I tried taking an enormous wedge out of the centre back seam – I took about two or three inches off the centre of the yoke and out of the back skirt pieces – tapering down to hip level where the fit was ok. This was much better, but ended up making the centre back seam look a little odd as the curve was quite extreme.

I found a few other people online with similar issues – isn’t this just the best thing about the sewing community – there is pretty much always someone else who had the same problem, took photos and blogged about what they did next! At As I Said – I found a really helpful post – she had a similar issue and Jen from Grainline had sent suggestions to  help solve it which involved making a dart through the yoke and into the skirt piece. As I felt that I had the yoke piece fitting quite well now I measured the width of the altered yoke and then worked out how much needed to come out of the top of the skirt pieces to match and I put a dart in each side. I did this pretty randomly – I had no particular idea where to put them or at what angle, but it worked fairly well – there is a little dimpling at the end of the dart but it isn’t too hideous


Because I had fitted the skirt without the waistband on I felt as if adding the full width of the waistband would be likely to throw off the fit, so I then just used one waist band piece folded over to give a much narrower band than the pattern suggests.

After all the fitting problems the fly front and zipper were really straightforward and I also used flat-felled seams for the first time (which was actually a bit tricky as the seam allowances were only half an inch)


I used a black denim from Minerva Fabrics with a little stretch – this was a remnant piece

Because I have such a big waist/hip difference I very rarely get RTW clothes that fit properly – generally I go for fit at the hip and end up with a huge gap at the waist, I can wear a belt but this often ends up looking lumpy. I can’t tell you how pleased I am with the way this skirt fits me – I don’t think I ever had anything that fit me so well!

I will definitely be trying this again – I am thinking of a version in purple cord now… maybe I will go a bit more mini next time!

And inspired by this process I have taken the next step – fitting trousers!

10 Comments Add yours

  1. gingermakes says:

    Say, this fits really well– your adjustments are spot-on! And thanks for the shout-out! As much fun as it is to sew crazy stuff, it’s frustrating to have a closet full of clothes that you can’t wear on a daily basis! This looks like something that you’ll get lots of wear out of! And purple cord sounds adooorable!


    1. mrszandstra says:

      Thank you so much for commenting – I was really struck by what you wrote about building up the wardrobe basics and I have been really focussing in doing that – though I still want to leave a little space for gorgeous dresses!



  2. jen says:

    Looks great, glad you got the fit figured out. You can always email me with fit questions, I do my best to try to get back to everyone in a timely manner though sometimes my inbox does get a bit backed up. You’re making me want a black denim Moss now also. How many is too many? Eh…


    1. mrszandstra says:

      Thanks Jen – I have loved making your patterns so far and I love my moss skirt – it’s really cool that you take the time to help people out as well!



  3. lsaspacey says:

    So glad to hear I could also help (by passing on the expert help from Jen) That’s also what I like about sewing blogs! By the way, I found your blog from a pingbback on a Grainline Studio post on the Moss.


    1. mrszandstra says:

      Your blog post was so helpful – it described exactly the problem I was having – it hadn’t occurred to me to make darts but it was like a lightbulb moment – so obvious when you know!


  4. Diana says:

    You are so right about the amazingness of the sewing community and being able to easily find someone who’s had the same problem! I just finished up my Moss muslin and have hips too tight with a gapping waistband. Thanks for the links to suggested fixes, and your skirt looks great! Are you still wearing it, 2.5 years later? 😉

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Hi Diana – sadly the fabric started to disintegrate – it just wasnt very strong and started to tear when it creased! I have some denim that I am planning to use to make a new one (when I get to it!)


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