I really liked Ginger Makes’ comment about how useful it is to make wardrobe basics. I am trying to make clothes that I will actually get a lot of wear out of – I don’t want to make things that I never have an occasion to wear – or more importantly – things that look a bit crap and home-made in a bad way.
I love the design of this skirt but I am not really built for mini skirts these days – so I went for the option with the hem band – except I just increased the length by the same amount to avoid having a horizontal line across my thighs. I was concerned about fit because I have wide hips going on so I made a muslin first
The muslin was a total disaster – although the width around the hip was fine the waist was way too big – looking at the pattern again I think I had been over generous in picking the waist measurement to use but even taking account of that the waist was still too loose and it seemed that the yoke wasn’t taking the skirt in enough between waist and hip – I have a pear-shape so there is a big differential between the two. At first I tried taking an enormous wedge out of the centre back seam – I took about two or three inches off the centre of the yoke and out of the back skirt pieces – tapering down to hip level where the fit was ok. This was much better, but ended up making the centre back seam look a little odd as the curve was quite extreme.
I found a few other people online with similar issues – isn’t this just the best thing about the sewing community – there is pretty much always someone else who had the same problem, took photos and blogged about what they did next! At As I Said – I found a really helpful post – she had a similar issue and Jen from Grainline had sent suggestions to help solve it which involved making a dart through the yoke and into the skirt piece. As I felt that I had the yoke piece fitting quite well now I measured the width of the altered yoke and then worked out how much needed to come out of the top of the skirt pieces to match and I put a dart in each side. I did this pretty randomly – I had no particular idea where to put them or at what angle, but it worked fairly well – there is a little dimpling at the end of the dart but it isn’t too hideous
Because I had fitted the skirt without the waistband on I felt as if adding the full width of the waistband would be likely to throw off the fit, so I then just used one waist band piece folded over to give a much narrower band than the pattern suggests.
After all the fitting problems the fly front and zipper were really straightforward and I also used flat-felled seams for the first time (which was actually a bit tricky as the seam allowances were only half an inch)
I used a black denim from Minerva Fabrics with a little stretch – this was a remnant piece
Because I have such a big waist/hip difference I very rarely get RTW clothes that fit properly – generally I go for fit at the hip and end up with a huge gap at the waist, I can wear a belt but this often ends up looking lumpy. I can’t tell you how pleased I am with the way this skirt fits me – I don’t think I ever had anything that fit me so well!
I will definitely be trying this again – I am thinking of a version in purple cord now… maybe I will go a bit more mini next time!
And inspired by this process I have taken the next step – fitting trousers!