Bold and blue Belladone

Belladone dressI am going to ignore the fact that summer is being very slow to appear and just make dresses – maybe that will entice the sun out?

For the last few weeks I have been planning dresses – and not just sensible solid colour, office ready dresses but summery dresses with gorgeous prints!

Belladone dressFirst up is Deer and Doe’s Belladone dress. I first made this last year and (despite being very sensible and making a muslin) – when I came to wear it properly I realised that there were a couple of fit issues going on. Firstly there is a slight gape at the neckline and it felt as if there was a little too much fabric across the top of the bodice above the bust. Secondly I felt as if the waistband was sitting slightly too high – though I think it looks fine in the picture – it felt slightly off when wearing it. Finally (and the one that causes the most problems on wearing the dress) the armscye rubs against my arm at the front – you can see a diagonal pull line up towards the neck in the picture  below.belladoneissuesThe first problems were the easiest to solve – for the gape at the neck I simply folded out a small dart about halfway along the neckline and smoothed out the curve. I then added about half an inch to the length of the bodice to bring the waistband down slightly.

I am still not entirely certain that I have resolved the problem of the armscye rubbing, it does feel better so far – but I won’t know for certain until I have worn the dress for a day. Initially I assumed that I needed a forward shoulder adjustment as I often find that dresses slip back off my shoulders as I wear them and pull at the front as a result. For this I added half an inch to the shoulder seams on the back of the bodice and removed the same amount from the front. It is also possible that the problem simply came from sewing the bias binding at 2/8 instead of 5/8 seam allowance, making the bodice slightly wider than it should have been – I am endlessly struggling with shoulder related fit issues at the moment and I am not sure that I am any clearer on which adjustments I need!Belladone dressAnyway – time to focus on the positive – the print! I spotted this fabric at Clothspot a few months ago and asked for a sample. I knew I loved the print but initially I wasn’t sure what I would use it for and whether I might find that it was a bit ‘too much’ to actually wear. I finally ordered some when it came back into stock recently and decided that the pattern would work really well with the bodice detail of the Belladone.

I was worried that the print would be a bit overpowering, but I don’t find it so – unless I have just gone completely crazy? I love the thick black edging to the floral pattern, it makes me think of a Keith Haring style cartoon. I find the grey details and the darkness of the blue balance out the scale of the flowers and I think this is going to be really easy to wear.Belladone dressThis is my entry for Dresses week as part of Indie Pattern Month 15 at the Monthly Stitch. I am aiming to enter something into every category this month so I have a lot of sewing ahead!

So – after a cold Me Made May is anyone else ready to make summer dresses and embrace some lovely prints?

 

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14 Comments Add yours

  1. Noelle says:

    LoVe the fabric! This has to be one of my favorite belladones. I just made my first one and have been looking for the right fabric for the next. Sadly not quite warm enough to wear it yet. Good luck with the armscye issue. Sometimes I just scoop out the armscye a little when it rubs…

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thanks Noelle – it isn’t quite warm enough here to wear this with sandals yet but hopefully not long now. I have no idea whether I am just over thinking the arm problem – hopefully this one is better or I will have to unpick all the bias from the sleeves to recut!

      Louise

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  2. So beautiful, the print is gorgeous. Hope all this excellent adjustments make this a super comfy dress, because it looks great.

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! It isn’t lined so I have to wait for a sunny day to try it out properly! I currently have the heating on and a scarf and a jumper on so I may be waiting for a while…

      Louise

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  3. It really does look stunning, the fabric is beautiful and you’ve really conquered the fit. I need to give this pattern another go!

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I really do like this pattern – I think the bodice is really different to the usual shape.I am not sure if I nailed the arm thing or not – I may be over-thinking it and I should just cut a bit more off the armscye next time!

      Louise

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  4. Carolyn says:

    I love this print! I agree that it works really beautifully with the pattern. For the armsyce, I always have this problem in the front and just wind up scooping out the front armsyce a bit… or sometimes a lot. I just draw a line on the dress where I want the front armhole to be, and I literally just cut it out, leaving a seam allowance. I don’t know if this is the *right* way to fix this issue, but it works for me!

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Yes I think I agonised too much about complicated adjustments and ignored the obvious! I think this one is better – I can’t see the same obvious lines this time and it felt ok in the short time I wore it! I do love the print – totally gorgeous!

      Louise

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  5. Lynne says:

    This is lovely, and the fabric print is amazing. Definately not too much at all.

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  6. It turned out really well! And I love the print!

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  7. Your Belladone looks amazing in this fabric and well done on all those adjustments – the effort you put in was well worth it!

    Liked by 1 person

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