The Joy of Separates – Grainline Morris

Grainline MorrisHi there – after unexpectedly deciding last week that I was going to try to sew all the Indie Pattern Month challenges over at The Monthly Stitch, I have been sewing like crazy to finish my entry for Separates Week!

I actually made three separates for the challenge (Sewaholic Hollyburn skirt and Named Kanerva blouse) but I want to focus on the Grainline Morris blazer today as this is my very first jacket!Grainline MorrisThe Morris has been so popular since it was released a few months ago – I was inspired by Katie’s loose fitting ‘boyfriend’ Morris; Elena’s blue Morris and Carly’s spotted blue and white Morris.

I bought the pattern as a PDF a few weeks ago and just at the same time Clothspot stocked this navy blue ponte, which was exactly what I had in mind. I have used other pontes from Clothspot here and here and they have been excellent quality – there is a higher percentage of viscose which gives them a lovely soft feeling and a great drape.grainline morrisI didn’t have a similar fabric to make a muslin so I decided to just cross my fingers and go for it and aim for a fairly relaxed fit. My measurements gave me an 8 at the bust, 12 waist and 14 hip. I went with a 12 at the shoulders and bust and graded out to 14 from the waist.  I wanted the blazer to be a bit longer – finishing around my hips, so I cut the length of the largest size and added an extra 2 inches at the lengthen/shorten line. I did mange to remember to increase the length of the facing piece and I cut the hem facing to match the bottom of my adjusted pattern piece.

I was concerned that my fabric might be slightly too drapey so I used knit interfacing on both the facing and the front of the blazer itself – I just used the facing to cut two extra pieces of interfacing. Several people mentioned the front collapsing slightly due to the weight of the facing on the unsupported front and I think the extra interfacing minimized this.Grainline MorrisI used a straight stitch on my sewing machine for the seams and then overlocked the allowances together to finish the seams – most of the seams are enclosed by the facings – the centre back seam is the main one which remains visible. There is a slight gathering on the sleeve head to ease it, I hate gathering – I never manage to get it looking even!

Everything came together so exactly – all the facing pieces fitted perfectly around the body and I love the neat way the shoulder seams are enclosed.

Grainline morrisI think if I make this again I would revisit the shoulders – the upper arm seam  is off my shoulder by a couple of inches, and looks too wide. I’m not sure whether simply going down a size or two at the upper shoulder would solve it? I am looking forward to following the sewalong to get some more tips.

The length is exactly as I wanted and I think I will wear this all the time over the summer – this is the North of England so you always need to have a jacket no matter how lovely the weather might look!

I have plans for a version in a lightweight stretch denim – what do you think?

Anyone else working on separates this week for the Monthly Stitch?

 

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11 Comments Add yours

  1. Noelle says:

    Very nice looking jacket! Hard to believe it’s your first one ever. 😉

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – using ponte definitely makes it a bit easier to sew – maybe this year I will try a winter coat!

      Like

  2. Thimberlina says:

    Love it! Bet you wear it loads! It’ll go with everything 😃

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      I think so! It’s really comfortable and blue works with so many things in my wardrobe!

      Louise

      Liked by 1 person

  3. Carolyn says:

    This looks great! I love the longer length and will definitely be incorporating this modification if (more like when, LOL!) I sew up this pattern. Like you, I really liked Katie’s boyfriend-length version. The front collapsing a bit does seem to be a very common issue, but I think a stretch woven might solve that problem once and for all. I hope you try it because I want to check out how it worked! Kelly of Cut Cut Sew made a twill version that seems to be holding the weight of the facing pretty well:
    http://www.cutcutsew.com/olive-twill-grainline-morris-blazer/

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I do want to try a stretch woven as well – I am very pleased with it despite oversized shoulder! Looking out for lightweight denim now!

      Louise

      Like

  4. Amy G says:

    I can honestly say this is my favourite Morris so far. It’s exactly the sort of one I would (attempt to) make so I’m feeling a bit sucked in ha! If I want to avoid being enabled like this I’m going to have to read less blogs. Never gonna happen 😀

    Like

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I downloaded this after reading someone else’s post about it so it is totally infectious! I loved Katie’s looser version so I wanted something similar (I have the BHL Victoria blazer pattern but I liked that this could be sewn using knit fabric) – I do recommend it – it is really satisying to sew and goes together beautifully

      Louise

      Like

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