The Summer Shirt – Tessuti Jac Shirt

Tessuti Jac ShirtSo – the lovely thing about sewing, but also the curse, is that you make a lovely new thing and immediately it creates a need for other lovely new things! This was the case with my Ultimate Trousers.

I made trousers and I love them and wear one or more pairs pretty much every week. I have decisively filled the trouser shaped hole and I am still incredibly pleased with the results. But I realised that now I desperately need a longer length, loose shirt to go over them. I love the Bellini shirt that I wore in the blog pic for the trousers but sometimes you really want something that covers all the lumps and bumps!jacback1Then Ingrid at We the Sewing mentioned that she was planning to sew up the Jac shirt by Tessuti. I took a quick look (as you do) and immediately decided that this was the loose fitting shirt of my dreams and promptly downloaded it.

This is the first time I used a Tessuti pattern. Tessuti have some free patterns so you can try out their patterns before buying.Tessuti Jac ShirtI can’t see many examples of this shirt online. I really like the detail of the angled seams and the side slits which give the shirt some shaping. This is the perfect pattern for a lightweight linen fabric.

I used a white cotton fabric which I picked up in the remnant bins in Abakhan locally. This fabric has fine stripes woven into it and is rather sheer, but not at all difficult to work with. I previously used some of this fabric to make a Named Kanerva top for the Separates Challenge.Tessuti Jac ShirtTessuti rate the pattern as suitable for intermediate/advanced rather than beginner. I decided to cross my fingers and trust to the looseness of the design and went ahead without making a muslin. I went for a medium throughout which was the closest match to my measurements (normally I end up having to grade between sizes). Unusually the seam allowance is 4/8 inch, but the collar uses 1/4 inch allowances so you do have to read the instructions carefully.

The construction is a bit different to previous shirts I have made and I found the instructions for making the angled slits at the side seam quite confusing. The shirt did come together beautifully and it is perfectly drafted so everything fitted exactly but the way it came together wasn’t at all intuitive. I ended up unpicking one bit that I hadn’t lined up correctly but apart from that I got by through following the instructions and hoping it would make sense in the end (which it did – phew!)Tessuti Jac ShirtThe collar instructions mean that you sew the collar onto the inside and topstitch on the right side and next time I would use the Foursquarewalls collar tutorial, which I used for my Archer shirts. The finish on the collar stand is probably the thing I am least happy with – I ended up with the curved ends not matching up exactly with the button placket, which is very much my lack of skill rather than a problem with the pattern. I decided not to bother sewing a button onto the collar stand as I don’t want to wear the shirt fully buttoned up.Tessuti Jac ShirtOverall I am really pleased with how this turned out, it’s boxy but the angled seams give it more interest than a typical loose top. It’s perfect for summer in the office, I love the slits on the cuffs and the hem finish is super neat.

So what next for summer sewing? I still have plans for dresses and more woven tops and maybe another Hollyburn skirt! What is everyone else looking forward to making for summer?

 

 

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11 Comments Add yours

  1. sewbusylizzy says:

    We are in the middle of winter (that said it’s usually 20 degrees most days) and I’m already sewing summer things!
    I used to attach my collars using the Four Square Walls method – I recently made a Burda shirt & ignored the instructions completely. This time I used the David Page Coffin method – you can find it really well blogged at the Sewaholic site as part of a Granville shirt post. It’s the best finish I’ve achieved yet. I also use plenty of spray starch as I work (a tip from my former patchwork & appliqué days) which seems to improve my finishes as well.
    Lovely shirt, I want to make a white linen shirt this year.

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – I will check out the Granville collar tutorial – it’s definitely the bit of making a shirt that I struggle most with

      Louise

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  2. Love this shirt! Since it is obviously not a beginner’s pattern, I’ll have to wait a bit….just beginning again and have stumbled a bit on my very first garment. grrr. You do lovely work.

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      If you have made a shirt it is certainly doable, the side split just adds a bit more complexity and I couldn’t see how it worked at first! It does come together really well though and the loose shape means fit isn’t a big issue which always helps! Good luck!
      Louise

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  3. Carolyn says:

    This came out really nicely! I hadn’t seen this pattern before, so thanks for the review. I love the details on the hem and sleeve cuffs. Your version really looks perfect for summer in this semi-sheer cotton fabric. I always use the Four Square Walls tutorial for collars but will have to give the David Page Coffin method a try too.

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – this one was new to me too but I like the slightly unusual shape and I wanted a loose shirt but one that is a little dressier than an oversized button down type. I could have made another Archer B but this one worked out really well and I may make another!

      Louise

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  4. Lily Lau says:

    I love it, I’d wear this shirt for romantic walks in the beach… 🙂

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Sounds perfect! I just need to be invited for a romantic walk now!

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  5. qplourde says:

    Looks lovely! I know what you mean about making an item and then realizing you need a garment to match! I really need to start planning my outfits better as this always happens to me. I love the fabric on your shirt!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – the fabric is lovely and summery but of course it has started raining again since I made it!

      Louise

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