Hi there – autumn has arrived here with a vengeance – a week or two ago it was still sunny and quite warm and now there is a chill in the air, leaves on the ground and by late afternoon the light in our garden is useless for taking photos, so I apologise for some fairly rubbish photos and hope to make up for it with pictures of plackets and flat felled seams!
Thank-you for all the comments on my fitting post last week! This is probably the most fitting work I have done so far and I think I am getting there with the finished shirt – though of course I can see things that I wish I had done better (and if anything still looks off that I haven’t picked up on please let me know – this shirt has been a real learning process for me.After sewing up test versions as quickly as possible with no seam finishing, or collar or cuffs, it was really easy to forget how time consuming sewing up a shirt can be. There are so many steps to complete and having worked so hard on the fitting I wanted to try to get all the details right. Consequently I feel as if I have been sewing this shirt forever and it was a relief to sew the final button on and call it finished!
So the pattern is Sewaholic Granville fitted shirt and I started with a size 12, but have made a number of adjustments. I used a white linen/cotton mix fabric from Abakhan remnants. To be honest the fabric is a little bit rough so I am planning to give it a few washes and hope it softens up. As you can see from the pictures it creases easily, but it was very easy to sew and press.I did run into a few more problems when I was sewing – firstly the collar and stand were too large – I checked the size I had cut and it was correct and I had stay stitched the neck so I don’t think anything had stretched out of shape. I have only seen one other reference to finding the collar piece too large so it is likely that I did something wrong but I can’t work out what! I thought maybe I had got confused when attaching the button placket and folding the button band? I was briefly uncertain about how to proceed but I realised that too large is much better than too small and I was able to cut back the stand and collar (about half an inch from both sides).
I used the Four Square Walls tutorial for attaching the collar – I previously used it when I made an Archer and it worked really well.My final issue was totally my own fault – after the last test version I decided to raise the underarm a little higher and I didn’t double-check that the seam line still matched the sleeve and I ended up with more sleeve fabric to ease. This would have been manageable – but I had made things difficult for myself by deciding to flat-fell this seam and the top of the arm isn’t very smooth as a result.I am delighted with my plackets – I have only made plackets a couple of times and these are definitely my best yet! I substituted the placket piece from the Colette Hawthorn shirt dress. I used it previously when I made the Deer and Doe Bruyere shirt and I thought it would be easier than trying to fold under the narrow hem on the Granville placket piece. It is possible that substituting this piece changed the width of the sleeve as I found the sleeve was slightly too wide for the cuffs and I had to make a tiny pleat in each to fit.When I look at the pictures now I think that I took slightly too much width out at the lower back and maybe I could add a tiny bit more width across the bust but this may be just the tendency of the fabric to crease. The sleeves are still slightly too long and I would prefer the cuffs to be a bit tighter. There is still a bit of excess fabric at the back of the sleeve – which may be down to my messy easing and I possibly need a forward shoulder adjustment – shoulders are very complicated! I will see how I feel after I have worn it a few times.
After all that I would love to just sew a tee or something very basic, but I am under pressure to produce Halloween costumes and I have beautiful fabric to make a coat which I would like to complete before it gets really cold!
Shirt making seems to be in the air at the moment – I have seen a few this week already, how is everyone else getting on with their autumn sewing plans?