It’s a shirt – Sewaholic Granville

Sewaholic GranvilleHi there – autumn has arrived here with a vengeance – a week or two ago it was still sunny and quite warm and now there is a chill in the air, leaves on the ground and by late afternoon the light in our garden is useless for taking photos, so I apologise for some fairly rubbish photos and hope to make up for it with pictures of plackets and flat felled seams!

Thank-you for all the comments on my fitting post last week! This is probably the most fitting work I have done so far and I think I am getting there with the finished shirt – though of course I can see things that I wish I had done better (and if anything still looks off that I haven’t picked up on please let me know – this shirt has been a real learning process for me.Granville shirtAfter sewing up test versions as quickly as possible with no seam finishing, or collar or cuffs, it was really easy to forget how time consuming sewing up a shirt can be. There are so many steps to complete and having worked so hard on the fitting I wanted to try to get all the details right. Consequently I feel as if I have been sewing this shirt forever and it was a relief to sew the final button on and call it finished!

So the pattern is Sewaholic Granville fitted shirt and I started with a size 12, but have made a number of adjustments. I used a white linen/cotton mix fabric from Abakhan remnants. To be honest the fabric is a little bit rough so I am planning to give it a few washes and hope it softens up. As you can see from the pictures it creases easily, but it was very easy to sew and press.Sewaholic Granville ShirtI did run into a few more problems when I was sewing – firstly the collar and stand were too large – I checked the size I had cut and it was correct and I had stay stitched the neck so I don’t think anything had stretched out of shape. I have only seen one other reference to finding the collar piece too large so it is likely that I did something wrong but I can’t work out what! I thought maybe I had got confused when attaching the button placket and folding the button band? I was briefly uncertain about how to proceed but I realised that too large is much better than too small and I was able to cut back the stand and collar (about half an inch from both sides).

granville collarI used the Four Square Walls tutorial for attaching the collar – I previously used it when I made an Archer and it worked really well.granvilleback1My final issue was totally my own fault – after the last test version I decided to raise the underarm a little higher and I didn’t double-check that the seam line still matched the sleeve and I ended up with more sleeve fabric to ease. This would have been manageable – but I had made things difficult for myself by deciding to flat-fell this seam and the top of the arm isn’t very smooth as a result.granville placketI am delighted with my plackets – I have only made plackets a couple of times and these are definitely my best yet! I substituted the placket piece from the Colette Hawthorn shirt dress. I used it previously when I made the Deer and Doe Bruyere shirt and I thought it would be easier than trying to fold under the narrow hem on the Granville placket piece. It is possible that substituting this piece changed the width of the sleeve as I found the sleeve was slightly too wide for the cuffs and I had to make a tiny pleat in each to fit.Sewaholic GranvilleWhen I look at the pictures now I think that I took slightly too much width out at the lower back and maybe I could add a tiny bit more width across the bust but this may be just the tendency of the fabric to crease. The sleeves are still slightly too long and I would prefer the cuffs to be a bit tighter. There is still a bit of excess fabric at the back of the sleeve – which may be down to my messy easing and I possibly need a forward shoulder adjustment  – shoulders are very complicated! I will see how I feel after I have worn it a few times.

After all that I would love to just sew a tee or something very basic, but I am under pressure to produce Halloween costumes and I have beautiful fabric to make a coat which I would like to complete before it gets really cold!

Shirt making seems to be in the air at the moment – I have seen a few this week already, how is everyone else getting on with their autumn sewing plans?

 

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22 Comments Add yours

  1. nanacathy2 says:

    First up I think its amazing. Is it the way you are standing or are the sleeves different lengths?

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      I noticed that too – it is the way I was standing – one sleeve is slightly pulled down on the shoulder soothe cuff comes lower.The shoulders still aren’t quite right but I think it is close enough for now!

      Louise

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  2. kokorimbaud says:

    Amazing shirt!
    I’m certainly no fitting expert, however I wonder if you may need a SBA? There seems to be some wrinkling around your bust that doesn’t look like it’s caused by linen wrinkly-ness?
    Either way, fantastic work – I’m still to conquer my first plackett, and your’s look perfect.
    I have a Granville cut out sitting here, but keep putting it off …

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Hello – I do sometimes do an SBA on more fitted tops but I didn’t on this one. If anything I found it very slightly pulling over the bust, but the fabric is a bit stiff which doesn’t help!

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      1. kokorimbaud says:

        Yes, I’m sure it’d look absolutely fine in a fabric with more drape and maybe a pattern – white linen is rather unforgiving 😀
        The SBA came to my mind because to me, it looks like you’ve got some excess fabric towards the side seams, as if a bust dart was missing … not sure that makes any sense!

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      2. notsewsimple says:

        I see what you mean – I moved the dart up as it was too low but possibly it is now too high or would work better at a different angle!

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  3. Looks good. I bet if you made this up in a print fabric instead of a solid you wouldn’t notice any other fit wrinkles and would consider the project done! It looks fine!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – I don’t love this fabric as much as I hoped!

      Liked by 1 person

  4. lovelucie1 says:

    I am in complete awe. I’ve not yet traveled into shirts. I blame lack of time and patience but I’m just scared!

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I quite like doing all the steps when I have time but the extra work on fitting made this more of a marathon! it is definitely worth giving it a go – none of it is hard – just go slowly

      Louise

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  5. Thimberlina says:

    Great fit and looks really rtw. I’ve still not make my archer…..hopefully soon 😃

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    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I do love the style and I will probably try it again in a slightly more forgiving fabric! I found Archer much easier as it is meant to be a bit looser and I went for oversized!

      Louise

      Liked by 1 person

  6. Wow: what an achievement. Really impressive, think you are being overly critical of it. Looks excellent.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! That’s such a lovely thing to say! I am proud of the details – I think I will see how I feel about it when I have worn it a few times

      Louise

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  7. Lynne says:

    I’ve had the same problem with the collar and stand being too long for the neckline. I’d stay stitched my neckline, so knew that wasn’t it. I blamed myself because it was a pattern I’d drafted, but when I checked the pattern measurements everything lined up. But, as you say, it’s better to be too long than short! I’ve put it down to one of life’s great mysteries, but if you find an answer, please let me know!

    I think your shirt looks brilliant, the cuff plackets are fantastic and I know what you mean about wanting to sew something simple next!

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  8. Very impressive, well done! Looks like you’ve made a great job of this. I’m yet to finish my first attempt so no advice to offer sorry, but looks pretty good already to my eye 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – your foxes shirt looks great already!

      Liked by 1 person

      1. Thank you, but I had the help on an expert in the shape of a tutor. No way I would have contemplated making one on my own…

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  9. Carolyn says:

    This came out beautifully, Louise! Well done!! It sounds like you went through quite a fitting marathon with this project, not to mention all the details involved in making the final shirt, and you should be proud of all your efforts. 🙂 I love the crisp white fabric and classic cut.

    Changing from a continuous lap to tower plackets will absolutely add width to the sleeve cuff. If you think about just the overlap, you’re adding about an inch here (the width of the finished placket piece), not to mention maybe a half inch for the underlap. I learned this the hard way, same as you, by winding up with a too-short cuff! To compensate, I took some width out of the sleeve seam on my Archers.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I think it is worth another go – though I am aware I would just be randomly trying new adjustments. I would make the cuffs slightly tighter I think – they are quite loose

      Louise

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  10. sewingbeefabric says:

    The collar and placket especially have come out fantastically. It looks very neat and crisp. I think it’s easy to keep tying to adjust something to you drive yourself insane, but it looks fantastic as it is. My main autumn sewing is making matching mummy and baby dresses, and daddy and toddler waistcoats for my brother’s wedding. 2 down, 2 to go!

    Like

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