Make coat, wear coat, fly!

coatfront2I am so excited to finally show you my coat! I feel as if I should get a badge of sewing achievement for this – and for bonus points – I used a Burdastyle pattern and with the briefest instructions ever, no diagrams, no sewalong! – I am feeling just a bit hardcore!coatfront3Lots of pictures to follow – but in honour of my new coat I ventured outside the garden!coatfront1So – first things first – the pattern. This is a Burdastyle coat – 08/14 #128 – described as an oversized coat. This version has also been made by Jolies Bobines in a gorgeous window pane print wool. I spotted it on the Clothspot blog when they were showcasing autumn coat fabrics and it was exactly the style I had been looking for – oversized and quite loose. I already have a fitted winter coat and I wanted a coat that I could wear over lots of layers. The pattern is in the Burda tall sizes. I am 5’7″ so I wasn’t concerned about extra height and I went for a size 84 based on the size chart, expecting to have plenty of room.

Fabric next – I fell in love with this teal coloured boiled wool/viscose fabric from Clothspot – the colour is so rich and bright and I thought boiled wool would be a forgiving fabric for my first coat. For the lining I chose navy blue paisley viscose lining, (sadly out of stock now). This represents the most money I have ever spent on fabric and I was absolutely terrified at the possibility of ruining such lovely fabric. I was tempted just to call it a blanket and keep it intact, but having included a coat in my autumn sewing plans I had to get on with it.coatback3I made a test version first. This was as much to work through the instructions for the collar and and lined pleat in the back as to test fit. The Burdastyle instructions are very brief and I went wrong in several places on the first go so it was a really useful process.coatfrontopen2When I tried on the first version I found the following issues.

  1. Sleeves were too narrow
  2. Lapels were also very narrow
  3. The coat wasn’t wide enough at the hip
  4. Something slightly off about the shoulders (surprise!)

For an over-sized coat, it wasn’t actually very over-sized as drafted. The sleeves would have been too narrow to accommodate a jumper – particularly when sewn in a thicker fabric and lined. I felt as if the lapel was too narrow – I envisaged being able to turn up the collar and it would have been entirely pointless with the collar as it was drafted. Width at the hip was easy to fix, but I was kind of stumped by the shoulder thing. The arm seam is off the shoulder and quite wide so in theory there should have been more than enough room and there wasn’t anything obvious wrong – there was a slight restriction if I raised my arms to the front, but it wasn’t a big problem.

I decided to consult with the wardrobe department at work – Jacqui took a quick look at my undefinable shoulder problem and suggested that I needed to bring the seam line in a bit – reducing the shoulder width about an inch, flatten the sleevehead out – the original piece was quite curved; and make the sleevehead a bit longer when I widened the sleeve. I have to admit I have no idea why these changes worked  – it would never have occurred to me to narrow the shoulder?

sleevechange2sleeve changes

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the lapels I simply added a couple of inches to both parts of the collar pieces and changed the angle of the notch. facing pieceAfter a second muslin it was all looking good and I was ready to cut the real fabric! I had a long weekend to dedicate to making the coat and it took all four days to complete it!

The instructions tell you to interface some key pieces, but there is very little detail beyond that. I used a hair canvas for the facings and collar piece and to reinforce the pocket openings and the hem line. I used calico to make a back stay and to reinforce the shoulder seams at the top of the arm. My main regret is that the interfacing I used elsewhere wasn’t very firm and I wish I had gone for something a bit sturdier to support the soft fabric.coatbackfly2I can’t tell you how much pleased I am – so pleased in fact that I haven’t bothered to attach the giant snaps I bought and I have been wearing it constantly without any closures (its kind of snuggly and wraparound so I haven’t missed the snaps).coatside1I made a coat – how cool is that? Anyone else conquered a big project this autumn?

 

 

 

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34 Comments Add yours

  1. This looks so cosy! You’ve done a lovely job and it’s a gorgeous colour. I really like the back vent detailBurda too! Also well done on navigating a Burda pattern – I’ve heard that they are generally rubbish for instructions but I still bought one the other day haha!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I have never had great success with Burdastyle patterns – but they are so cheap and have lots of choice! All the instructions for this coat fitted onto one page with no diagrams so I definitely needed a practice run, but it did all make sense in the end!

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Colesworth says:

    Gorgeous, I love that colour. Lining sounds nice too, it looks nice and warm!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      It isn’t super warm – I didn’t underline so the coat isn’t very thick – it cam be worn over jumpers though and wrapped around which does help (and so far this year it hasn’t been really cold!)

      Liked by 1 person

  3. I love the blue colour and it does look very warm! The back vent is very large – different – I like it! Nice work getting through those instructions.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – I like the oversized vent as well and I wanted the collar to also be over sized, the instructions were very concise – it really helped to have a practice run – especially for the collar.

      Liked by 1 person

  4. nanacathy2 says:

    Respect! It is beautiful.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – I am really pleased!

      Like

  5. Lovely coat and great color. A coat with a vent is always a pleasure to wear,

    Liked by 1 person

  6. A most gorgeous colour. Really suits you. Merry Christmas. X

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Hélène says:

    Congrats! This coat is absolutely gorgeous. The style, the colour, everything seems perfect. I haven’t conquer any new sewing skills lately bc my comfort zone is sooo comfortable right now!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I am feeling very proud if it and very grateful for all the lovely comments!

      Like

  8. Janet says:

    Congratulations! Love the back vent detail – that’s really unusual. Hope you get loads of wear out of it.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – the vent was one of the things that drew me to this pattern!

      Like

  9. Very impressive indeed and a lovely, bright colour for Winter. Should think it will be instantly cheering on a grey day. Great job!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou – I do love the colour!

      Liked by 1 person

  10. Lynne says:

    This is amazing!! You definitely deserve a sewing achievement badge! I love the shape of the back vent, and also the colour. Happy wearing!

    Liked by 1 person

  11. qplourde says:

    Wow I love the color! The design is really nice – although I probably won’t be trying to conquer any Burda patterns in the near future for that very issue with the instructions. Pattern directions are confusing enough! Congrats on keeping with it and making a gorgeous coat.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! The instructions are very brief and some of the terms are odd – seam marking instead of notch for example.

      Liked by 1 person

  12. Chris says:

    Love, love, love! this coat…

    Liked by 1 person

  13. Noelle says:

    Awesome coat! Love the color and that back vent is so cool. Nice job on a big project!

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou Noelle! I am relieved it is done!

      Like

  14. Oh Louise it looks amazing! The colour is perfect on you and I love the pattern, the back vent is a great design detail. Well done for conquering the coat, you can do anything now! xx

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou (and merry Christmas!) I am a sewing superhero!

      Like

  15. What a fantastic coat, no wonder you are proud. I can believe it was daunting cutting into that fabulous fabric. But so worth it. You will wear this for years. Well done you.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I have been wearing it constantly!

      Like

  16. Hannah says:

    This coat looks ridiculously cosy! The style is lovely and the colour so cheerful for grey winter months!

    Like

    1. notsewsimple says:

      Thankyou! I love the colour and I have been wearing it constantly!

      Like

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