Hi all
It has been a bit quiet around here for a few weeks – much sewing in progress but not very much getting out to take photos.
My latest project took a bit longer than planned to complete as I fought a bit with the fabric and then waited even longer to get round to finishing off the hems. After all the hassle of sewing I wasn’t sure if I liked the finished article but I think I may be ready to forgive it now!This is the Named Reeta dress again – I made my first version for the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network and I have been wearing that version regularly this summer – I love the swishy long skirt.
I wanted to try it again with a shorter skirt though – I had a really clear picture in my head of a 70’s vintage style khaki shirt dress (minus the huge collar of course) and I thought Reeta would be the perfect match.I decided to make this in a silky cupro fabric from Fabric Godmother – currently only available in gold. I used cupro once before – when I was making a prom dress – and it was a bit of a nightmare then so I knew what I was getting myself into.
Cupro has a beautiful washed silk appearance, it is a fibre similar to viscose so it is washable and breathable, but it is incredibly shifty and slippery and stretches out of shape as soon as you look at it. I used spray starch for the first time which made the cutting out much easier but I still struggled with the slippery fabric and the hem dropped quite a lot.I managed to squeeze this out of 2m of fabric and I used strips of the self fabric to make the belt and casing, rather than using ribbon as the pattern suggests.
My starry Reeta is a size 42 bust and shoulders, graded out to a 44 waist and hip. in practice the hip is very loose so you don’t have to worry too much about the sizing there. I shortened the skirt by very unscientifically folding about 12 inches/30cm out of the skirt at around knee level – I did remember to shorten the button placket/facing pieces as well. This time round I ignored the instruction to hem the placket/facing pieces and this allowed me to adjust the hem length right at the end – and allow for evening up the hem after leaving it to hang for week or so!So – now that the pain of the sewing is almost forgotten (but not quite…) I am really pleased with how this dress turned out – annoyingly I wish I had left it slightly longer than it ended up – an inch or two below the knee would have been perfect!
Does anyone have any tips for sewing with cupro – apart from ‘don’t!’ – I love the way it looks but I think it is too much like hard work for me!
Louise
This dress looks great on you, the colour is fab but it must of been so hard to sew, I’ve used it once as a coat lining and swore never to use it again (although didn’t use starch!)
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Thankyou – I think I have forgiven it now! The starch really helped with cutting out – stopped it being so shifty but it’s hard to spray the fabric completely so some pieces still stretched out of shape really easily – lots of stay stitching!
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I’ve never sewn with cupro… But when I was having a ‘mare with some polyester crepe de chine recently, another blogger recommended Microtex needles, which really helped. And for cutting, sandwiching a single layer between two sheets of tissue is a good way to subdue a shifty fabric if you cut with shears. The trauma you went through doesn’t show at all in the final result – it looks like a great dress to get you through all those warm autumn days we’re hopefully going to get.
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Thankyou! I did use microtex needle but I find that cupro has a tendency to stretch out of shape really quickly – especially if cut on the bias! Back to sewing with something nice and easy for a while!
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A wool coat will be a real treat after this then 🙂
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I may have made a tshirt or two first! Have to gather strength for coat making!
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Your dress is fabulous, and definitely worth all the trouble! I haven’t used cupro myself, so unfortunately don’t have any tips.
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Thankyou – I always find slippery fabrics a challenge so I will just need to learn how to handle them!
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